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Car Maintenance

How to Maintain an Air Cooled Vw (Volkswagen)

Last Updated on October 11, 2019 by SogouAuto

Here’s some recommended maintenance for VW Beetle and Karmann Ghia or other air-cooled Volkswagens. If you’re interested in the old VWs this is definitely good summary of basic things you ought to do should you wish to keep your VW going.
1. Remove large chunks of dirt and dry mud from underside of car body and chassis look for rust. Fix rusted area and coat with top-quality primer or lead-based primer and paint, or coat with fiberglass resin. Mud will likely be trapped using the fender wells within the upper light domes, fender ends, is undoubtedly the Super Beetle, the very best area of the front coil shock springs.
2. Pull tar-paper rug off floor to reveal the sheet metal floor pan. Tidy and coat rusted region of floor pan with top rated primer or lead-base paint. This is very important especially the rear floors and battery area. Replace tar paper rug with rubber mats (spike side of mat down.) Note: 72 VW Beetles and later models had no tar paper rugs.
3. On VW Beetle, remove running boards (both L and R side) and clean/repair body attachment area and running boards. Coat body attachment area and metal a natural part of running boards with fiberglass resin, and workout a thin layer of fiberglass with resin at rust damaged areas. File and sand smooth all resin/fiberglass work.
4. Change fuel hose less than fuel tank, and forward of engine firewall, possibly at fuel pump area. Use new original VW hoses or 3/16 diameter braided fuel hoses for replacement.
5. Check gas tank at lower area for fuel leaks.
6. Change transmission oil, and change engine oil.
7. Adjust engine valves, points, and timing.
8. Grease front wheel bearings, and grease front chassis.
9. Remove front wheel bearings, and grease front chassis.
10. Remove dirt from four c v joints (constant velocity joints) at rear wheels (on ’68 automatic and ’69 and later VWs.) Disassemble and pack all c v joints with molybdenum disulphide lithium grease. Rotate the c v joints by installing the previous wheel c v joint to your inside transmission flanges, and installing the prior transmission c v joints out wheel flanges.
11. Check brake line at pedal area for rust and fluid leaks. Coat brake line of this type with Rustoleum or lead-base primer and paint.
12. Jack front of car to free front wheel rotation. Apply the brakes and have an assistant outside make an effort to rotate leading left and right wheels. If a (or both) front wheel still rotates when the brakes are applied, examine faulty brake hose, brake cylinder or caliper, master cylinder, rubber grommet on Master cylinder where brake fluid enters for cracking or leakage, or brake shoes and linings. Apply (with force) and release brake and then check again without cost rotation of front wheels. If someone (or both) front wheels never rotate freely, check for faulty brake hose, brake cylinder of caliper. NOTE: brake hose deteriorates from inside and may look perfectly good on the outside.
13. Repeat above brake procedure to rear wheels.
14. Checking the brakes in this way is the most important activity before driving the auto. It assures the engine just isn’t overstressed (lugged down,) and does not overheat resulting from faulty brakes. The engine lasts longer and also car is certain to get better gas mileage.
15. A motorist can not always detect in case the car brakes are dragging. Therefore, the brake procedure also needs to be performed when: the fuel economy drops; the actual vehicle does not roll freely (coast) on the move, especially after releasing brakes; a wheel drum overheats, or smelling of burning brake shoes.

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